Pilgrimage to the Crestone Ziggurat

Crestone, Colorado is a spiritual center that includes an astonishing array of sacred sites. Within walking distance of this small international village are ashrams, monasteries, zendos, temples, chapels, retreat centers, stupas, shrines, medicine wheels, labyrinths, a ziggurat and other sacred landmarks. Most of Crestone’s major religious centers are sheltered in the juniper and pine forests on the lower slopes of the mountains south of town. The Camino de Crestone is a 26 mile inter-faith pilgrimage that visits 15 of the spiritual centers.
 

Since moving to Crestone, my wife, Elisia, and I have made pilgrimages to many of the area’s sacred sites. Although pilgrimage may seem an antiquated religious ritual, it remains a vibrant activity in the modern world as pilgrims combine traditional motives—such as seeking a remedy for physical or spiritual problems—with contemporary searches for identity or interpersonal connection. That pilgrimage continues to exercise such a strong attraction is testimony to the power it continues to hold for those who undertake these sacred journeys. Pilgrimage has been an essential component of my spiritual practice for over 30 years.  
 

Our first local pilgrimage was to the Crestone Ziggurat, a nearby landmark built by Najeeb Halaby, father of Queen Noor of Jordan, for prayer and meditation. Halaby, an American of Syrian Christian descent, built the Ziggurat in 1978 as a representation of the Zoroastrian gateway to heaven. Ziggurat comes from an ancient Assyrian word ziffurantu, meaning light pinnacle. A ziggurat, by definition, is a temple tower with an outside staircase that leads to a shrine at the top. The first of these temple structures were built in ancient Mesopotamia, or what is now Iraq. The purpose of a ziggurat is to get closer to heaven, the home of the gods; in fact the people of Mesopotamia believed a ziggurat connected Heaven and Earth. Essentially, a ziggurat represents a stairway to Heaven where one can commune with the divine.
 

Elisia and I walked to the ziggurat, which rises from a hill on the easternmost edge of the San Luis Valley less than two miles from our house. The wind began to gust as we made our way up the switchback trail to the castle-like observatory, which had been stuccoed a golden ochre color. The ascent up the rail-less ramp was treacherous due to the gusting winds. I hugged the inside wall of the structure as I made my way up the 40-foot tall tower. I stood on the summit and took in the stunning views of the San Luis Valley, one of the highest and largest alpine valleys in the world, encompassing an area of 8,000 square miles. The flat, expansive valley is ringed by the San Juan Mountains of the Continental Divide on the west side and the Sangre de Cristos on the east side. It is a truly inspiring place for prayer and meditation.

The Lindisfarne Chapel

Crestone, Colorado is a spiritual center that includes an astonishing array of sacred sites. Within walking distance of this small international village are ashrams, monasteries, zendos, temples, chapels, retreat centers, stupas, shrines, medicine wheels, labyrinths, a ziggurat and other sacred landmarks. Most of Crestone’s major religious centers are sheltered in the juniper and pine forests on the lower slopes of the mountains south of town. The Camino de Crestone is a 26 mile inter-faith pilgrimage that visits 15 of the spiritual centers.
 

One of the most remarkable structures in Crestone is the Lindisfarne Chapel. With its sacred geometry, stunning interior and remarkable acoustics, the 2,800 square foot dome serves as the main practice and retreat space at the Crestone Mountain Zen Center. The Lindisfarne Chapel was conceived and designed as an interfaith sanctuary by cultural historian William Irwin Thompson, founder of the Lindisfarne Association. The Lindisfarne Association (1972–2012) was a nonprofit fellowship of artists, scientists, and religious contemplatives devoted to the study and realization of a new planetary culture. The group placed a special emphasis on sacred geometry. The exemplar of these ideas is the Lindisfarne Chapel, which is built to reflect numerous basic geometrical relationships. The world’s premier performer of the Native American flute, R. Carlos Nakai, recorded his iconic 1987 album "Sundance Season" in the Lindisfarne Chapel.

Riding Windhorse

Mongolian shamanism is concerned with personal power and bringing good fortune into one’s life. Personal psychic power is called hii (wind), or hiimori (windhorse). According to Mongolian shamanism, windhorse, or hiimori, can be increased through smudging, drumming, and other forms of shamanic practice in order to accomplish significant aims. Shamans raise their windhorse, and then ride on that life energy. This force resides in the chest; it is the fundamental energy of the heart, or basic goodness. If you live a life in balance, doing good for others, your windhorse will be strong. Windhorse is often portrayed as a winged horse and is an allegory for the human soul. You can ride on the energy of your soul. 
 

The concept of windhorse is also found in Tibetan Buddhism and has essentially the same meaning. Lung-ta, which translates as windhorse, is the name given to a particular kind of prayer flag seen flying on mountain tops, on high passes, along rivers, across bridges, on people’s homes and around holy sites. The flags normally have a horse in the middle and one of the majestic mythical animals in each of the four corners, the snow lion, garuda (golden-winged bird), dragon and tiger, which represent heavenly qualities. When the wind catches the flags, the prayers printed on them are carried on the breeze and distributed for the benefit of all living things. The purpose of Lung-ta prayer flags is to entreat the Windhorse to intercede on our behalf, by petitioning Buddhist deities and protectors, to give us good fortune and to remove obstacles from our way. The Windhorse carries prayers to the heavens and bring blessings back from the heavens. 
 

To the Tibetans, the horse represents a very sacred animal and symbolizes well-being or good fortune. The horse is thought to be a spiritual communicator, messenger and carrier. The horse represents stamina, endurance, beauty, elegance and freedom and will bring these things to you. Where it was tamed and especially where used not only as a steed but also as a draft animal, the horse symbolizes force that can be controlled to benefit society. The horse symbolizes energy, and the energetic pursuit of the objectives of Buddha’s teachings. The horse will assist you in staying free of troubles and avoiding pitfalls and danger. Horses are known to have great speed, thus creating a quickening within the mind and soul. This allows one to evolve spiritually and mentally at a much faster or quickened rate. The Windhorse will assist in setting the mind free so that it may soar. You can then ride on the energy of your life.

Spirit Horse Falls

An excerpt from The Shamanic Drum by Michael Drake

 

Jade Wah'oo Grigori, my mentor and teacher, stood before me. "Find Spirit Horse," he exclaimed! The shaman vanished from my dreams as quickly as he had appeared. I awoke in the morning with the words "find Spirit Horse" indelibly etched in my mind. I had not seen or spoken to Jade in over four years, but I remembered full well his teachings of Spirit Horse. Jade had taught me that, through sacred drumming, one could ride Spirit Horse for personal empowerment and healing the land.
 

I contemplated this dream throughout the day, trying to discern its meaning. I was finally drawn to a stack of back issues of Shaman's Drum magazines in my office. I fervently leafed through the magazines with no idea of what I was looking for. Midway through the stack, I opened the winter 1990-91 issue to an article titled "Native Americans Join Efforts to Preserve Sacred Ridge on Mount Hood."

Enola Hill, a densely forested, pristine watershed ridge on Mount Hood (Oregon), was under the threat of logging operations. A coalition of Native Americans, historians, and environmentalists appealed and delayed the U.S. Forest Service's timber sale, pending ethnographic studies to determine the area's cultural significance. The ethnographic studies revealed that Enola Hill is a tawyash, a Sahaptin Indian word for a place where spiritual power can be obtained and maintained. In fact, there is no other site in the Pacific Northwest with such great cultural significance. For thousands of years, Enola has been a Native American Mecca -- a revered and sacred place for pilgrimages, ceremonies, and vision quests.    

As I continued to read the article, I came across a reference to a spectacular waterfall known to natives as Spirit Horse Falls (Devil Falls on USDA maps). The falls got its name from vision questers who saw a spirit horse rising from the mist. As I read these words, I was overcome by a profound sense of euphoria and resolve. I knew that this sacred waterfall was the "Spirit Horse" that Jade had told me to find. I expressed my gratitude for this gift in a prayer to Creator.

Two weeks later, I stood for the first time on Enola Hill, overlooking Spirit Horse Falls. The power of the roaring falls and the beauty of the rain forest filled my senses with a lucid-like awareness. I felt a holistic connection to my Earth Mother. In my heart I felt that I had finally come home. I drummed and performed a ceremony for the protection and preservation of this sacred place that provided spiritual power for this region. I prayed that this nerve center in the web of life would continue to distribute vital energy throughout the surrounding natural systems.

Afterwards, I made the three-hour drive back to my home in Bend, Oregon. That night, and for many nights to follow, my dreams were filled with drums, Enola Hill, and Spirit Horse Falls. In my dreams, I saw myself drumming at all the waterfalls around Mount Hood. I was told that the rivers that flow from this mountain are sacred. These rivers feed the spirit. This water will awaken the people when you drum at the falls. All who touch this water will be awakened. I was told that a home would be provided from which I will go out to drum the sacred places. It is time to consecrate these sacred places. The time has come to awaken them.

Three months later, a friend contacted me regarding a caretaker position in the Mount Hood area. I soon relocated to a community near Enola Hill and Spirit Horse Falls. I spent the entire summer, hiking to waterfalls and drumming the sacred waters. By the end of the summer, I had completed a circuit around Mount Hood. Having completed my mission, I sensed that my work there was done. I moved back to Bend, Oregon, yet Spirit Horse Falls will always be a significant power place for me. I still make pilgrimages to the falls to drum and pray.

Unfortunately, the threat of logging persists at Enola Hill. Though ethnographic studies reveal otherwise, the Mount Hood Forest Supervisor has determined that there are no traditional cultural sites on Enola Hill. The Forest Service contends that Indian cultural use of the site was transitory and doesn't qualify for the National Register of Historic Places. The U.S. Forest Service hungrily eyes the mature forests on Enola. This greed for more timber to cut makes the agency loath to acknowledge the native cultural and religious value of the area. The continuing degradation of sacred sites stems not only from colonial attitudes about the lands where native people live and worship, but also from prejudice and disrespect for native religions. Indian religious freedom is an environmental issue, and the destruction of sacred sites is the ultimate environmental racism.

"Shamanism for Every Day: 365 Journeys"

In Shamanism for Every Day: 365 Journeys, shamanic practitioner and intuitive consultant Mara Bishop offers readers a full year of calming, transformative journeys providing a daily connection to Nature and Spirit in a turbulent time. The book features daily exercises to unfurl your sensory tendrils to experience your relationship to the elements around you and within you. With daily guides that lead you to fresh observations, conscious interaction, and connection to the universe, this compact book will enable you to expand your sense of oneness with the rhythms and flow of nature.
 

"We live in intense times," writes author Mara Bishop. "The pressures of daily life can leave us emotionally, mentally, physically and spiritually depleted. Shamanic journeying can enable us to rejuvenate, reconnect to wisdom, and restore health, despite those pressures." While there are many paths to well-being, this book is designed to provide themes and topics for you to think about during your day, suggestions and observations to help reconnect you to your own innate wisdom, and to be fully in the moment, with focus, energy, and intention.
 

You’ll discover:

• The ancient roots and principles of shamanism and the practices of shamans, who straddle the spiritual and physical realms;
• The crucial concept of shamanism: the interconnectivity of all things;
• How to journey, tap into the wisdom of our ancestors, and how to find a guide;
• The Why of the journey--a rekindling of the connection to your own spirit;
• The importance of helping spirits, whether human, animal, plant, or other;
• Setting the stage for your journeys;
• The power of drumming;
• How to practice interpreting what you learn as you go along.
  

The book also includes an informative Q&A with the author, a detailed list of notes, resources, and references, a guide to journeys based on themes including Moon Ceremonies, Solstices and Equinoxes, and Welcoming the Spirit. Look inside Shamanism for Every Day.

What is Shamanism?

Shamanism is universal and not bound by social or cultural conditions. It’s the most ancient and most enduring spiritual tradition known to humanity. Shamanism predates and constitutes the foundation of all known religions or philosophies. In essence, shamanism is the spiritual practice of ecstasy. Ecstasy is defined as a mystic, prophetic or poetic trance. Ecstatic trance is an academic term referring to those inwardly focused experiences of cosmic oneness, that mystical connection to a living, intelligent Universe that exists within each of us. Practitioners enter altered states of consciousness in order to perceive and interact with the inner world of the self. The act of entering an ecstatic trance state is called the soul flight or shamanic journey.
 
The shaman’s trance is an intentionally induced state of ecstasy. Shamanic trance is characterized by its flexibility, ranging from light diagnostic states to full embodiment trance states. Shamans use intention and discipline to control the nature, depth, and qualities of their trance states. The shaman may progress through a range of trance states until they reach the level that is necessary for healing to occur.
 

The capacity to enter a range of trance states is a natural manifestation of human consciousness. The ability to enter trance states makes us human, not shamans. What makes shamans unique is their mastery over an otherwise normal human trait. It requires training, practice and devotion to master any expressive art. Shamans master the art of ecstasy to see the true nature of the universe.
 
Shamanism is a way of perceiving the nature of the universe in a way that incorporates the normally invisible world where the spirits of all material things dwell. Shamans have different terms and phrases for the unseen world, but most of them clearly imply that it is the realm where the spirits of the land, animals, ancestors and other spiritual entities dwell. Spirit encompasses all the immaterial forms of life energy that surround us. We are woven together into a net of life energies that are all around us. These energies can appear to us in different forms, such as spirits of Nature, animals or ancestors. The spirit world is the web of life itself.
 
Shamanism represents a universal conceptual framework found among indigenous tribal humans. It includes the belief that the natural world has two aspects: ordinary everyday awareness, formed by our habitual behaviors, patterns of belief, social norms and cultural conditioning; and a second non-ordinary awareness accessed through altered states, or trance, induced by shamanic practices such as repetitive drumming. This second-order awareness can be developed over time or appear all at once, but once it is discerned the world is never the same. According to shamanic theory, the ordinary and non-ordinary worlds interact continuously, and a shamanic practitioner can gain knowledge about how to alter ordinary reality by taking direct action in the non-ordinary aspect of the world.
 
Rhythmic drumming is a simple and effective way to induce ecstatic trance states. When a drum is played at an even tempo of three to four beats per second for at least fifteen minutes, most people can journey successfully even on their first attempt. Transported by the driving beat of the drum; the practitioner journeys to the inner planes of consciousness to obtain personal revelation and spiritual experience.
 
According to shamanic cosmology, there are three inner planes of consciousness: the Upper, Middle, and Lower Worlds. The three realms are linked together by a vertical axis that is commonly referred to as the World Tree, or axis mundi. This central axis (spinal column) exists within each of us. Through the sound of the drum, which is invariably made of wood from the World Tree, the shaman is transported to the cosmic axis within and conveyed from plane to plane.
 
The shaman traverses the inner planes in order to change and shape experience. It is an inward spiritual journey of rapture in which the shaman interacts with the inner world, thereby influencing the outer world. In the shaman’s world, all human experience is self-generated. Experience is shaped from within since the three realms or resonant fields that define our experience of reality exist within each of us.
 
The essence of shamanism is the experience of direct revelation from within. Shamanism is about remembering, exploring and developing the true self. Shamanism places emphasis on the individual, of breaking free and discovering one’s own uniqueness in order to bring something new back to the community. Shamanic practice heightens the ability of perception and enables you to see into the deeper realms of the self. Once connected with your inner self, you can find help, healing, and a continual source of guidance. To practice shamanism is to reconnect with your deepest core values and your highest vision of who you are and why you are here.